I think it was the Olive Garden restaurant chain that
explicitly used the motto: "When you're here, you're family!" But
really, it seems to be the implicit goal of most restaurant owners to make
their customers feel like family.
There has been a long-running Chicago TV show called
"Check, Please!" It features average citizens giving their reviews of
local restaurants. Each round of reviews is preceded by a visit to the
restaurant that will be the next subject of discussion, including an interview
with its owners. There is a remarkable uniformity about these interviews.
Almost without exception, the first thing the owners/chefs say is that they
want each and every customer to feel at home walking through the door. They
cite that urge towards hospitality as having been their primary motive for
opening their restaurants in the first place. They wanted to share the food of
their respective cultures, or the recipes of their grandmothers, with a larger
circle of friends. And they assure the interviewer that that's how they regard
each and every customer - as friend and family member to be invited inside - to
be treated to a personal, heart-warming culinary experience around the table.
I'm not sure how often I've actually been embraced that way
when I've entered a restaurant. But the good intentions of making me feel at
home are everywhere in the world of gastronomes. Which leads me to wonder - why
are restaurant owners the only ones who strive to deliver such a hearth-and-home
experience to customers? Why isn't such warmth exuded by all kinds of
shopkeepers and service providers? Why don't computer store technicians and
plumbing supply store owners fling their arms wide when I enter their shops,
and seek to get to know enough about me to cater to me with personal
friendliness? Why don't booksellers discretely circulate around me as I browse,
asking me if I'm pleased with their assortment of titles and if I have any
suggestions for improvement?
Well, I understand that too much such personal attention
might become intrusive. It might smack of that
stereotypically annoying clothing store clerk who hovers about, jumping
in to assert, "That muumuu you're holding - it's you, dear! And
aren't you lucky - it's on sale today!" I also understand that
"breaking bread" together has traditionally represented the family
bond. Anyone who is invited to partake of a shared meal is being included in
the host's family circle in a way that a tailor who fits a suit for a man is not
apt to be including that man among his honored intimate associates.
But why don't grocers and butchers come forward to pat me on
the back, assure me of how welcome I am, and express a sincere hope that I
enjoy my visit? After all, those last vendors are also in food-sharing
professions.
So the question remains - why are restaurateurs the only
ones to so uniformly state the goal of making customers feel at home?
Furthermore, why are they the only ones who so consistently say the object of
their business is to share something of their own traditions and family
histories with their customers? Why don't all business people look upon their
ventures as opportunities for a kind of creative self-expression? Why don't
other types of entrepreneurs besides chefs consider themselves artists - not
the kind of artist who suffers alone and misanthropic in a cold garret, but the
kind of artist intent on bounteously, joyously sharing creative offerings with
the rest of the world?
When my parents and I ran our printing business, that sort
of sharing was actually what we initially believed doing work of any kind
should and would be all about. After we got over our most dire need to
accumulate enough money to get by - we really didn't care about making money at
all. We viewed our business as a way of interfacing with others. We thought of
our office door as a gateway that would connect us to the outer world. It was
our way of giving tangible shape to our days, our skills. We implicitly
intended the business to be a way of making a package of the lifetimes of
anecdote and experience we had gathered, of tying it up with a bow, and of
presenting it to our customers as a gift of ourselves. We expected that our
customers would approach us with corresponding intentions. We viewed the
arrival of every customer as the opportunity for a shared adventure in
personality.
For some reason though, we were almost never able to put our
relations with our customers on that basis. Our customers viewed their time
with us strictly as business, as a mutual means of making as much money as
possible as fast as possible. That was their only goal in coming through the
door, and they assumed it was our only goal in dealing with them. They didn't
approach us as they would enter a restaurant - with an intention of getting a
warm greeting and of having a friendly, familial encounter. In fact, some
customers wanted to make the exchange as impersonal as possible. They would
come in, plunk the copy they routinely needed printed for that week on the
counter, then leave before we'd even gotten a chance to get to the door to see
them. With us they wanted a job done, cut and dried - nothing more. They
hurried away, and we were left in their dust.
Sometimes this mismatch of expectancies really floored us.
Occasionally we'd think we had made a more personal connection with a customer.
On his repeated visits to our shop, one customer had confided his fears about
his new born son's health. The little boy had been born with retinoblastoma, a
form of eye cancer. The doctors felt it might be best to operate, but at that
time at least, the delicate surgery had a high chance of leaving the child
permanently blind. Our customer was racked by having to make the decision - to
consent or not to the operation. Then, after he and his wife had decided to let
the doctors go ahead, they were left suspended in agony, waiting for the
outcome of the operation.
When it seemed sure the outcome of the operation would have
been determined, we called to ask about the little boy. Since the man had so
often unburdened himself to us, we felt somewhat included in his circle of
friends. However the voice that greeted our inquiry was anything but friendly.
In fact, it had an edge of actual hostility. "Um, who are you again?"
he demanded to know. We stammered out an explanation of ourselves - "the
people who do your printing, our shop, across the street from the post office,
the printing and mailing of your flyers for your antique sales…" He
softened somewhat in recognition of us, but we could tell he was still baffled
by our call and considered us as outsiders taking an undue interest.
Nevertheless he did answer that it had been good news. The surgery had gone
well and the infant had already been fitted with eyeglasses. He would likely
have to wear thick glasses all his life, but that was a small price to pay for
his having acceptably good eyesight. Our customer delivered the information to
us, and the conversation was awkwardly ended.
A couple of other follow-ups with other customers went
pretty much the same way. We'd assumed too much familiarity. Even more
devastatingly awakening for us though was the reaction we got from a regular
customer to whom we offered a holiday bottle of champagne. We had thought we'd
open it on a "special occasion." But since those occasions never seem
to arrive, we decided it would be more fun and fitting to give the bottle to
Mordy. He had become the customer we most looked forward to seeing. He never
plopped his copy down and ran out the door. He always paused and really seemed
to see us, rather than looking right through us with his sights on what he had
to do next. He was that rare kind of person who truly conversed. He listened
and talked sensibly to the point, rather than telling about his Civil War
re-enactments after we had just mentioned the tomatoes growing in our garden.
So with a twitter of excitement, we readied the bottle by
putting it in one of those bright tin foil bottle bags that liquor stores used
to give out free, but that now can only be bought. We eagerly anticipated the
look of pleasant surprise on his face when he received this unexpected token of
rapport.
But things didn't go as we anticipated. My mother and Mordy
chatted as usual, then when she sensed the holiday visit was winding down, she
turned, clutched the prettily wrapped bottle that had been waiting on the desk
behind her, and a little awkwardly, handed it towards him with the deprecating
air of thrusting forth a bauble. She accompanied her presentation with some
trite, but sincere ramblings about how we always appreciated seeing him and how
we hoped he had a bubbly holiday season…
She was thrown from this shy, schoolgirl ride by a sudden
fence of repulsion. Mordy's face had turned wooden. He pushed the offering back
toward her and said, "Oh no, I never accept gifts from business people. I
make it a policy never to accept gifts from people I'm giving business to. That
sort of thing can get out of hand, you know. I don't want to be put in the
position of taking bribes. So thanks, but no. Please keep it."
My mother stood there, stunned beyond words by this refusal.
It was so ludicrous. Mordy had been our customer for over ten years, bringing a
page of copy for us to print for his engineering society meetings every month.
There was no chance that his level of patronage would ever be increased or
decreased. The same twenty dollars we could expect to make from him monthly
would hardly warrant any attempts at bribery to maintain.
Well, it was possible that Mordy himself realized how silly
his little outburst of rectitude had been as soon as he uttered it. My mother
thought she had seen a quick clouding of regret in his eyes. Perhaps his
"No!" had just been a reflex reaction. Perhaps he'd been so used to
having larger blocks of business solicited from him by real companies, that he
was just automatically geared to refusal. But once he'd made such a point of
the rejection, he couldn't go back on it.
However, that still left the wound of his basic assumption.
The deepest cut he'd made was the one from the knife that sliced into us as
"business people." So we weren't on any sort of more sociable
standing with him after all. We never had been. We never would be. We certainly
would never be granted license to fling wide our arms in the manner of a fat, jolly
Santa of a restaurant chef, and consider Mordy to be virtual family, come to
our table for conversational sustenance. Both Mordy and my mother stood there
frozen for a moment, locked in their irrevocable estrangement.
With a mumble of amelioration, my mother took back the
bottle. We put it away carelessly. By the time we finally opened it ourselves
years later, it had turned to vinegar.
But that seems to be the way of the world so far.
Restaurateurs are granted the right to assume familial relationships, especially
with their regular customers. But the people in most other professions neither
give nor expect to receive personal attention as they go about their
"strictly business." Their work is in no way viewed as a way of
making a personal offering of themselves. Their exchanges remain essentially
mercenary transactions, as between prostitute and john. Any attempts to go
outside those limits come across as weird, untoward intrusion.
Although, it struck me that such distancing might not be
absolutely the norm after all. After I had pretty much retired from the
business and rented the premises out to a young printer, I was amazed at how he
and his customers immediately met each other on a more jovial footing. The
arrival of a customer was for him more an occasion for socializing than a
matter of business. I wondered how he so readily put customer relations on that
basis. He seemed to just naturally fall into camaraderie with the people who
entered his shop, in a way my parents and I had always dreamed of, but had never
achieved.
Antonio would sit there, endlessly confabbing with the
people who came through the door. For their part, his customers would stand at
the counter, bantering gleefully with him, without ever once looking at their
watches or giving any sign of having other places to go. They would spin out
mutual tales of themselves as if they were at a bar instead of a counter. What
was Antonio's secret?
Well, it's true that his relationship with his customers was
more backslapping than true friendship. Many of his "customers" were
literally drinking buddies who would come over from the pub. Any idea of having
printing done was incidental to their visits at best. In turn, Antonio often
only had the most limited intentions of rendering any serious service. He too
was on deck to socialize, to make the office a venue for idle chatter. While my
time in the business had lacked any personability, his lacked any serious
accomplishment. My ideal of using one's business as a means of marrying the art
of friendship with artisanship wasn't realized in either instance. Entree to
that sort of happy combination still generally seems to remain the preserve of
restaurant owners.
But why does that have to remain the case? Why can't we
enlarge our expectations of what we can get and what we can offer in return
when we go into the office of a lawyer, a doctor, a used car salesman? Why
can't we add another line or so to John Lennon's imaginings and re-imagine the
role of all kinds of small business owners, service providers, and professionals?
"Imagine all jobs made joyful and worthwhile" - by their humanity.
Imagine being greeted with sincere warmth and interest by all these
entrepreneurs, whose real goal in this re-imagined world is to open their doors
to a better understanding between themselves and their customers. Imagine all
workers intent on making an art of the services they offer, and all customers
and consumers responding in kind. Then when our exchange is over, what's really
been accomplished is that we have creatively abided in each other's company a
while.
I wistfully imagine going into my accountant's office and
being received into a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Perhaps she even has a
fireplace in her office, with a log burning on cold days. There's a comfortable
lounge chair by the hearthside, and while I wait my turn to have my forms
filled out, I'm offered a complimentary glass of wine. When I'm ushered up to
her desk, she unfurls a spread sheet in front of me like a waiter in a fine
restaurant prepares a fresh table by unfurling a linen tablecloth across it.
She knows me and remembers me by all my getting and spending, but especially by
my charitable contributions. As she reviews this list of deductions, she once
again notes that I donated a goodly sum to an animal shelter. She asks how
Autry, the singing cat I adopted from the shelter, is doing. We lower our
voices and conspiratorially exchange information on how to circumvent the cost
of having to get a veterinarian's prescription by ordering Revolution, that
most effective of flea medications, directly off the Internet from a source in
New Zealand.
When all my tax forms are filled out, we both lean back in
satisfaction with a job well-done. The accountant says she looks forward to
seeing me next quarter. But I needn't wait until then to come in. She beams,
"Come in anytime, whenever you have a question, or just to visit. And
remember - when you're here, you're family!"
Imagine!